AWBF

Australian Wooden Boat Festival.

This boat festival is held every two years (except during Covid) in Hobart, Tasmania and this year it was held from the 10th to the 13th February. Our cruise ship arrived in Hobart of the morning of the 14th February and I was hoping to see various older sailing vessels leaving port on the 14th because the festival had ended.

This did not happen but I managed to see certain vessels in port.

The approach to Hobart from our cabin.

 

The navy is in port – as we slowly approached our berth. 

 

It was a short walk from the ship to the boat harbour – on the left side of the picture you can see crew members repairing some of the gear.

It was difficult to photograph various ships because of the position of the sun – it was so bright that I could not see the target so it was a touch of point and click and hope for the best.

I recognised the ‘James Craig‘ having seen her in Sydney.

James Craig is a barque, launched in 1874 having been built by Bartram, Haswell & Co., of Sunderland, England.

Her history – originally named Clan Macleod for Thomas Dunlop & Sons of Glasgow. The company was one of the three companies that merged to create the British shipping company called Clan Line. 

Clan Macleod was sold in 1887 to the Fa. Russell & Co. Glasgow
In 1900 she was sold again to Mr J J Craig of Auckland and renamed  James  Craig and she sailed under the New Zealand flag.
In 1911 she was stripped and used as a copra hulk in New Guinea, later in 1918 she was refitted and traded as a sailing ship until the early 1920’s.
Later again she was a coal hulk in Recherche Bay Tasmania, and in 1932 was beached and abended after breaking her moorings during a storm.
It was not until 1972 when volunteers from Sydney Heritage Fleet re-floated her and had her towed to Sydney in 1981.

In 1985 Maureen & I moved from Melbourne to Sydney and that was the first time we saw the ‘James Craig‘ and wonder if she would ever be restored to be a sailing ship again. 
In 1997 the volunteers had completed their work and she was re-launched and rigged as a barque.

James Craig when she was a hulk in Tasmania – photo taken by Alan Edenborough about 1970.

A more modest sailing vessel – she is the ‘One and all’.

One and All is a South Australian vessel launched in 1985. The objective of One and All is to provide young South Australians the opportunity for self-discovery and self-development, and to experience adventure while learning.

Just to show how close our cruise ship berthed to the sailing vessels the bow of the Celebrity Eclipse can be seen.   
If you are interested in a short video of the James Craig click on the link below, the video is about five minutes.  

James Craig

The show must go on

We watched several shows while cruising with Celebrity Eclipse.

The above was an acrobat show with music and dancing.

Fish, I think.

and a dragon – but couldn’t see the link but that didn’t matter it was entertaining.

The acrobat/dancers were very fit and skillful.

Another evening it was a Rock show

                                               It was loud and fast.

The black circle is a lift that one of the acrobats used to exit the stage via summersaults – as he made his dive the stage opened. It was quite an exit.

Another night it was a female singer that sang famous songs and sounded like the original artist. She had a very powerful voice. I checked her on Youtube and it appears that she has been in many shows and is well known. I should get out more.

                   Check her out Debra Krizak

Not a very good photo of her, but I was a long way away. She sang virtually non-stop for 45 minutes.

Her act was – There’s a lady on Stage . . 

She was only on the ship for one night and left in Hobart to fly back to Sydney. I think she joined in Adelaide.

The dancers come acrobats were very good as were the singers and dancer during the rock program, in all cases they were backed by a live orchestra.  

We missed seeing the next singer 

Chantelle Delaney

We did see Jeff Green an Australian comedian.

Unfortunately we missed Andrew Lee who is a Mentalist & a Magician. He won the Britain’s Got Talent in 2018.

Andrew Lee

Fjords or Fiordland

which ever way we spell the name they hold a fascination of beauty.

Our first view of the fiords not long after sunrise – taken from our balcony.

We had passed through the Foveaux Strait, which separates Stewart Is. from the South Island of New Zealand.
The southern seaport of the South Is. is a town called Bluff, which, when I was at sea I visited in the 1960’s.
It is known for the wind. The ship in which I sailed was unable to unload cargo because the wind was so strong that it was considered too dangerous to work the derricks. It was four days before the wind eased enough for us to unload. This was before containerisation.
If you left Bluff, it did not matter which way you went, east or west, you were making your way back to London.

 

The top map gives you an idea of the overall area and I have blown up the Dusky Sound area and marked the track of our cruise.

and of course, we had dolphin visitors who liked to play in our small bow wave.

The main island on our port side is Resolution Island, which was named after Captain Cook’s vessel when he visited the area on his second voyage in March 1773. 

  

Exit gap ahead.

After a couple of hours sailing through Dusky Sound and Breaksea Sound we entered the Tasman Sea and sailed north to Doubtful Sound.

The Tasman Sea was kind to us as we sailed north to Doubtful Sound. 

We were not the only vessel interested in Doubtful Sound.
                                      

it didn’t matter where you looked there was a photo opportunity.

We exited Doubtful Sound via Thompson Sound and the island on our port side as we left the area was Secretary Island, which is uninhabited and is one of the finest conservation islands in New Zealand. All introduced animals have been removed making it a pest free island and only the native animals & plants have been allowed free range.

 
                                                          Secretary Island.

Our final Fiord was Milford Sound – fortunately we had visited Milford Sound in a previous cruise, when I managed to take some photographs.

Our arrival at the entrance to the Sound was nearly 5.00 pm which clashed with getting ready for dinner and we left Milford Sound around 6.30 pm, which was during during dinner – talk about timetables clashing!


Milford Sound February 2017 – 

rolling mist and waterfalls wherever one looked.

The 2023 visit was a beautiful day and dry, but I did not see any waterfalls or rolling mist in any of the Sounds.

I f you ever have the chance to visit Milford Sound jump at the chance – a Sound that I found more interesting than Doubtful Sound, but Dusky Sound has a charm that is different to Milford Sound. If you do go make sure you book a late evening meal. 

Once in the Tasman Sea again it was full ahead for Sydney and the end of the cruise.      

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Towards the end

Our next port was Lyttleton, the gateway to Christchurch.

Part of Lyttleton harbour

We had visited Christchurch on our last trip via Akaroa, because Lyttleton port was still out of action due to the earthquake.
When we booked this cruise we were hoping that we would visit Christchurch via Akaroa again because during our last visit Akaroa was just a transit place to board the coach for Christchurch.
Akaroa looked an interesting place with the French influence due to Jean Langlois buying land from twelve local Maori Chiefs. Langlois planned to resell the land to French settlers back in France.

The original name of Lyttleton was Port Cooper after Daniel Cooper (1785-1853) from Bolton in Lancashire UK who was convicted at Chester for theft. He was transported for life and became a very successful businessman. His life story reads like a novel.
Later Lyttleton became known as Port Victoria until 1858 when it was formalised by the Governor as Lyttleton, after George William Lyttleton.

Map of Lyttleton in 1849

Lyttleton’s main shopping street (London Street)

Because we had seen Christchurch Maureen wanted to see more of Lyttleton, the last time I visited Lyttleton was in the 1960’s and it did not look like it had changed all that much, except for the closure of a few pubs due to the earthquake.

                                                       London Street

There were quite a few passengers from the Majestic Princess who had the same idea, so we joined the queue for the local shuttle bus rather than the Christchurch shuttle. At least the Lyttleton bus was free, and the journey was less than five minutes.

We walked the shopping street – both sides – and returned to the drop-off point.

You can see how close we were to the ship -on the left is one of the shuttle buses. 

We had hoped to walk to the Time Ball clock that had been repaired after being damaged during the earthquake.

The above shows what the Time Ball looked like before the earthquake. The whole building, including the tower, was reduced to rubble during the earthquake.

 The Time Ball had been in use since 1876 and up to 1934 was the only way mariners could check their chronometers to assist in accurate navigation.
In 1934 the time ball was replaced by radio signals. 
After the earthquake all the stones were rescued and numbered and the tower was able to be reconstructed, but unfortunately not the original building.

                                                  The current Time Ball
The climb to the view the Time Ball was all too much for Maureen, so we made our way back to the ship. 

I was hoping to take Maureen to the Mitre Hotel, which first opened in 1849 but was destroyed by fire in 1875 and rebuilt.
In November 1910 Captain Robert Falcon Scott had his farewell dinner in the ballroom of this hotel. 

Captain Scott and his wife Kathleen aboard Terra Nova 1910.

In the 1960’s I had experienced some happy times over drinks in this hotel, so I was disappointed that the hotel was no longer in business, all due to the earthquake.  

The last I heard was that the owners were asking for permission to knock the place down due to the high cost of repair. 

Simple answer to a simple question – where shall we go for a drink before lunch, the Mitre Hotel is closed so we will try the Majestic.

The view was pleasant, and lunch was ready when we wanted it . . . 

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Our next port of call was to be Port Chalmers for Dunedin – once again we had visited Dunedin on our last visit and decided not to repeat the experience, because last time it rained, and the forecast for our visit was again, rain.

I took the above as we approached Port Chalmers – dramatic & beautiful, but not site seeing weather.

It was raining when we arrived in Port Chalmers. We, (as did many others), stayed on board, warm and dry.   

Yorkeys Knob

Yorkeys Knob

George Lawson was from Yorkshire in the UK but by 1886 he was a well-known as a beche-de-mer (sea cucumbers, but aka sea slug) fisherman.

During the off-fishing season he farmed a plot of land on a area known as the Knob where he raised pumpkins, sweet potatoes and paddy melons, which the bandicoots and pigs ate.

An Eastern Barred Bandicoot. Photo Hans and Annie Wapstra.

George Lawson’s nick name was Yorkey, and he lived on the Knob, which in the first picture is the land that sticks out into the sea.

Once again we anchored of shore and we were ferried ashore where we boarded a coach for the short ride to the Skyrail.
Maureen and I had visited Cairns in the early 1990’s before the Skyrail was built.

We had experienced the trip from Cairns to Kuranda and we had also driven up to Kuranda.

So this time it had to be the Skyrail and we did not want the bother of DIY so we used the ship’s excursion system. All went very well and the whole process was very efficient, which took away any worries.

Once ashore we were guided to coaches based on our ticket number. Very easy and we were soon on our way for the short ride to the Skyrail Terminal.

Once inside the Skyrail terminal, the Terminal staff guided us to the boarding area.

As the ‘cars’ approached the terminal staff would hold the ‘car’ steady to allow passengers to disembark. Once the disembarking passengers were clear he would call the next couple or four to board as he held the car so that it moved only very slowly.

They had two types of viewing cars – the ‘normal one’ and one with a glass bottom so the passengers could also have a clear view of what was below. This would depend on your ability to accept being so high and your faith in the strength of the glass. Maureen and I were in a ‘normal’ car with a solid floor.

Another couple climbed in with us who were not off the ship. They were an American husband & wife travelling independently from any organised tours. They were interesting to chat to and listen to their comments about Australia.

The trip to the top would take about 90 minutes and this included two stops part way – which required us to exit the car and walk a short distance to a viewing platform. It was not compulsory, just a suggestion.

Of course, had to find the ship at anchor – I marked it in pink as it was so small at 144,000 gt.

We exited our ‘car’ for the first viewing and reboarded another car for the next leg.
We knew that the next stop would give us dramatic views of a large waterfall.

The Barren Falls
The river descends from the Athterton Tableslands to the coastal plain.

Barren Falls

Click on the above link and this is what we hoped to experience – if not as wild but perhaps a little more dramatic than we did experienced.

Taken from our ‘car’ before the next stop.

the scene down river.

The Skyrail gave us an excellent view over the whole area and if we wished to return in the wet season perhaps, we would see a different picture.  At least while we were standing on the viewing platform, we were dry and warm.

Not sure if you will be able to read the warning so here it is . .

                                                    Prepare to get wet

While it is spectacular at any time of the year, the majestic Barren Falls really comes in to its own during the wet season (December to April) when huge volumes of water from rush over its craggy face to the gorge below.
Stand at the lookout when the falls are in full flood and you will very likely get wet.
Considering how high the viewing platform is it gives an idea of the power of the Barren Falls in the wet season.

We finally reached the top where the small town of Kuranad is located.

The trains were not running the day that we visited Kuranda – the local station.

We walked through the town on one side of the road and back again on the other side of the road – it was not a large town. They had a couple of pubs and various shops with tourist items for sale, cafes, and small restaurants.

Kuranda market – The above is from the internet because the market was not operating the day we visited the town.

We had an hour and a half before our coach left for the ship.

Of the two pub this one had character having been in operation since 1890.

We sat on the veranda for our drinks – the picture is of the bar area with several types of beer chalked on the back wall. I tried a couple of draft beers and when I asked which was the most popular the barmaid pulled small samples of the three beers in question. Great customer service which generated more sales of the larger glasses.
The one noticeable thing was when I asked for a glass of water later I was told to help myself as the barmaid waved her hand to several large water coolers containing iced water along with a stack of glasses. Couldn’t fault the customer service.

The coach took about 40 minutes from Kuranda back to the pier for the trip back to the ship. An interesting day out, but it is always nice to get home for a quiet sit down.

A taster weekend of pictures . .

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The advert was attractive for a weekend cruise that was classed as a ‘taster’ – a cruise that people might take to see if they would like cruising for their next holiday.

The ship was Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas and we hadn’t sailed with Royal Caribbean before, although we have sailed with two other companies in the Royal Caribbean International Group.
We thought it would be a nice break after the madness of the Christmas and New Year celebrations.

We made a mistake, because the ‘taster’ should have been titled ‘booze party’, but to be fair we should have realised that a three day cruise over a weekend (Friday to Monday) would not be a true ‘taster’ that we expected.

Regardless Maureen & I and another couple enjoyed ourselves, but we were glad that we were in company as we were ‘slightly’ older than most of the other ‘tasters.’
Plus, we felt a little out of place, because none of us had thought of getting tattooed before we joined the ship.

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Royal Promenade and shops

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A lovely library area, but not a large choice of books, and many were not in English, but German and other European languages.

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We had a balcony cabin, the balcony was smaller than we were used to, but the cabin was one of the best sized cabins that we’ve experienced on any ship.

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The above is from the internet, my photograph didn’t come out as clear, due to the light.

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The above came out a little better.

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A walk down the Royal Promenade & shops.

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The local pub was open of course.   :- o)

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Inside the Pig & Whistle.

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A short distance from the pub  . . I don’t think the phone box worked, as for the car I’m not sure.

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The casino area was one of the largest casino areas that I’d seen on any ship – slot machines, gaming tables, private tables, there was little chance that you would not be parted from your money if you chose to use the facilities. We had to walk through casino to get to the bar that we preferred.

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The Schooner’s Bar

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The Schooner’s before the daily rush  . .

The ship offered plenty of outside attractions, from pools, to surfboard riding, a helter- skelter, and for the more mature, put-put golf.

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Adults only –

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The Pool area was quite large.

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Or you can go surfing (costs about US $19 a day)

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On the other hand, perhaps not . . .

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But then when someone can surf he makes it look easy . .

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Some fancy rock climbing . . . the rock ‘face ‘ was the outside of the funnel.DSC06490r

Others may prefer a water slide with a difference –

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The end of the slide can just be seen – I expected people to come out like a shot from a gun, but they didn’t.
I was told by a lady who tried the helter-skelter that she was not travelling all that fast and at the end of the ‘run’ there was a flattish bit that slowed you further. None of the people I saw ‘shot’ out as I expected.
On reaching the exit that can be seen in yellow, they came to a dead stop in a large ‘bowl’ area of water, and the slider had to climb out, most did so on their hands and knees.

Before using the slide one had to be under a certain weight (but the weight in question was quite high), and over a certain height (small children couldn’t use the slide), and the user had to take in to account various medical conditions, bad heart, high blood pressure, joint problems etc.
If you had any medical condition listed you couldn’t use the slide.

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This was more my style, but I never even got to have a go – on the first day at sea the wind was so strong that this put-put area, the surf ride, helter-skelter & rock climbing were all closed for safety reasons, and we were not allowed into this area of the deck either. I’m not surprised because the wind was quite strong.

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The ship had an ice rink and at certain times they had a show.

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The ship’s skaters were very good, and the show went for about 40 to 50 minutes.. . .

They must be very fit.

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At the end of the show they would have about an hour’s break before repeating the show.

The theatre (a different area than the ice rink) was over three decks and could seat many passengers.
On other cruises we usually found a seat about 30 minutes before the show started to make sure we had a seat, so of course we did the same on the Voyager of the Seas.
It was a surprise to us that people didn’t arrive for the show until about ten minutes before the beginning, and there were still many empty seats once the show started. Perhaps the casino was a bigger attraction.

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The show was excellent and very professional.

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There were some very powerful singers, both male & female.

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and slick dancers.

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The scenery complimented the singers and dancers.

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What disappointed me was the price of the beers – all in USD, which included an 18% tip (for your convenience).
To take Corona (considering the current global problem, why not?) at USD $7.75 or AUD $11.92 at the exchange rate offered by the ship.
At a local liquor store near my home, I can buy a bottle of this beer for AUD 2.16, which includes Australian taxes.
I expect a business to make a profit, and my local liquor store is doing so, but cruise ship companies buy the beer tax free, and in such bulk that AUD $5 or $6 would give a decent return on their investment.

With my evening meal I like a glass of wine –

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The above is part of the red wine list – USD $9 to USD $14 per glass (AUD $13.85 to $21.54) perhaps you’d like to buy the bottle, which is cheaper than buying by the glass. USD $31.00 to $49 (AUD $ 47.70 to $75.38).

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Let’s use the NZ wine Kim Crawford at USD $12 per glass (AUD $18.46) or by the bottle USD $42 (AUD $64.62), as against my local wine shop at AUD $14.60 a bottle, and he is making a profit after shipping it from New Zealand to Australia.

The cruise companies buy wine in such large amounts, which will be tax and duty free, because it is being exported and drunk in international waters, so why the huge price increase?

When we booked the cruise we were given AUD $55.50 each ‘cabin money’ to spend on board by Royal Caribbean. If we didn’t spend it we lost it, which is normal for many cruise companies.
The ‘cabin money’ was appreciated and only because Maureen doesn’t drink alcohol our drinks bill at the end of the weekend was ‘acceptable’

The soft drinks were USD $3.50 (AUD $5.38) and a ‘mock’ tail was USD $7.00 (AUD $10.77).

On the Saturday & Sunday morning around 10.30 am we four attended a game of trivia, which we have enjoyed on most cruise ships.
On Saturday we were well down the success ladder, but on Sunday the Team Shire won! Team Shire being Maureen & I and our two friends.

Trivia is a popular game on most cruise ships and is always well attended for the social side of meeting other ‘cruisers’ rather than for the prizes.
Some cruise companies offer prizes of company logo pens or pencils, or a voucher for coffee or an ice cream, or even drinks at the bar, nothing expensive or elaborate.

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The above four signs were our prizes for winning. Whale done, Smarty Pants, I am a Clever Cookie, Our team is a-merzing at Trivia.     

We split our winnings, and I have Whale Done & I am a clever Cookie for my young grandsons.

In my opinion the cruise company made a big PR mistake during this weekend – the cost of all cruises from Australia / New Zealand include gratuities (tips) because the culture in each country is to pay people a decent wage, and we only tip for service over an above what is expected when buying a drink or a meal in a restaurant etc

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On the last night of the cruise envelopes were left in cabins – we had three nights on board, and we had paid the gratuities in our ticket price, which is to cover all those that we have contact with, plus the staff who support the system behind the scenes that we don’t see or meet.

Plus, we mustn’t forget the 18% drinks tip. . . but they still had a final squeeze, which left a bad taste.

Anyway, overall, we had a pleasant weekend, but I doubt that Royal Caribbean will be our future cruise company of choice, unless they offer particularly ‘sharp’ prices and destinations that we are keen to visit.

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Sydney at 5.45 am on the day that we returned. . . .

A hardship post

 

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Sunrise over New Caledonia

For a time I was in a business partnership with a Frenchman, who lived in Tahiti and later moved to New Caledonia before finally moving to Sydney.

I can remember him saying that for a Frenchman working for the French government and being posted to one of the French colonies in the Pacific, which includes Tahiti and New Caledonia, as a ‘Hardship’ posting, which entitled them to extra allowances and benefits to make life that little bit easier.

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During our recent cruise in Ruby Princess we visited New Caledonia and in particular Noumea, originally called Port-de France until 1866 when it was changed, I took the above picture to show what French’ hardship positing’ personnel have to put up with during their time in Noumea. The above only shows the smaller ‘hardships’.

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Ken must have had the same ‘hardship’ thoughts because his picture shows a different set of moorings, and the exotic apartments overlooking the water.

Maureen and I had visited Noumea about twenty three years ago – we enjoyed our few days (it was a business trip for me) and we stayed in the beach area. We didn’t find the city centre to be an attractive place for visitors but overall, we enjoyed our visit.

This time the cruise company offered a hop on hop off bus service for AUD $15 per person, so we thought we’d have another look around. The ship’s buses had colour stickers in the front window to differential them from the normal hop on hop off buses.  The system worked well – we boarded the bus at the ship’s gangway, and our first stop was the market, which was our choice.

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The market area with the distinctive roofs

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There were stalls outside and inside was a fruit and veg market.

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Much of the outside area was under a tent like structure which helped to keep one out of the hot sun.

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At first glance I thought this stall was offering hub caps for sale, until I got closer.

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They were a type of wind chimes or sun reflectors for BBQ / garden areas.

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I like to wonder round food markets to see what is different and to compare prices with the same item back home, which is more Maureen’s domain than mine.

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The shaped roof was a landmark that could be seen along the waterfront. The market is known as the Port Moselle Market –

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Picture from New Caledonia Travel

We were too late for the fish display, which had closed, and of the baked cakes etc there were only a couple of stalls still open, but we still experienced the ‘feel’ of the place.

We waited for one of the buses with the correct colour displayed in the window because we had decided to go to the ‘end of the line’ or the place were bus start its return journey. The full trip from the ship to the return was about 45 to 60 minutes.

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Transport was a modern air-conditioned vehicle. Each passenger had a coloured wrist band so the driver could refuse those without the correct colour.

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There are also ‘Tchou Tchou’ road trains, which run around the town and beach areas.

Green

red

Which colour would you like?

Yellow

These trains have been going for years – when Maureen and I visited in 2000 I can remember using the yellow one from the beach area (where we stayed) to the city centre.

DSC06289rWe crossed the road from where the bus stopped, and this brought back memories of twenty years ago. We’d stayed at the hotel were the bus waited, can’t remember the name of the hotel at that time, but it was the same hotel, now called the Nouvata Hotel.

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Along the beach at various points they had shelters, which contained benches and long tables. On our first visit I even went swimming at this point, and that wasn’t a ‘hardship.’

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Once back in the city we had a walk around Coconut Palm Square.

DSC06281rcEight meters (26 feet) high with a semi-nude lady on the top – and known as the Celestial Fountain.  Inaugurated on the 24th September 1893.

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Same park, but not a coconut in sight.

New Caledonia was named as such, thanks to Captain Cook, in 1774  because the island reminded him of Scotland. In 1788 the island was approached by Jean François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse shortly before he went missing, presumed killed in the Solomon Is.

There is a suburb in Sydney named after Lapérouse, who arrived in Australia on the 26th January 1788 (Australia Day), he was on a scientific expedition under instructions from King Louis XVI of France.

A number of people in France applied to join Lapérouse’s expedition, and one sixteen-year-old second lieutenant applied, but was turned down, he was Napoleon Bonaparte- how history might have been different.

The Coconut Palm Square was part of a military facility, and named as such, due to the French soldiers planting coconuts in the area, and the locals would refer to the area  as   “Place des Cocotiers”. (Coconut Tree Square).

It was in 1855 that Paul Coffyn, a brilliant engineer, was put in charge of drawing the first urban plans for what the future city of Port-de France (now called Noumea) would look like. At that time ‘Place des Cocotiers’ was part of the ocean.

Embankments were built to stop the sea coming in and the new land area was called “jardin de l’infanterie marine” (the marine infantry gardens), until they planted the coconut trees.

The day was interesting and enjoyable and well worth the $15 . .. . .

 

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Farewell Noumea, what a ‘hardship’ location . . . .

 

 

Savusavu

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Savusavu is on the island Vanua Levu, which is on the smaller of the two larger Fijian islands, and I have marked the location.

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Savusavu is unspoiled & a place that is unhurried and free of most modern trappings and has managed to retain much of yesteryear.

Savusavu was a popular trading port for sailing schooners of old, who arrived carrying a cargo rum & cloth to trade for sandalwood.

We only visited the town during our short stay, but perhaps one day we might return to experience the hot springs, which the locals believe can cure various illnesses.

I read that Savusavu is a popular area for Americans to buy land & homes because it is so idyllic.

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Once again, we anchored offshore and the tender boats ran a ferry service. I took the above as we approached the small wharf near the yacht club.

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The white haired guy at the end of the pier is yours truly  . . .

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Peaceful main street which had welcoming stalls along  each side of the road that lead to the main shops.
The stalls had interesting displays of locally made jewellery – even I, who hates shopping, got interested in certain items on display. The stall holders greeted us with Bula and left us alone to browse the items. We were never pestered to buy.

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A perfect caption that sums up the town. The sign was for sale as a locally produced item, but being a wooden item, and taking the strict quarantine laws in Australia into account, I only photographed the item.
But Maureen made up for my lack of spending and bought a number of items of locally made jewellery.

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A windmill (I think) made of local dried plants, and samples of the jewellery. The waters around Savusavu are rich in nutrients that help to create oysters that grow pearls that are black as well as various other colours. The seashells are turned in to unique pieces of jewellery.

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I cropped this picture from the stall photograph above.

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I found this Fijian piece of jewellery on the internet, it shows the patterns of the sea shells

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It was relaxing to just wander around – the ship can be seen at the end of the road.

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Council offices

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The local bus depot and the style of the buses brought back memories of yesteryear.

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Wondering around soon generates a thirst and as my nick name was on the advert it was pub time.

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We entered the local bar, but they didn’t have a Woody!

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So, I forced down a cold Gold.

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I like to help the local economy . . .  as often as I can . . .

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After a couple of hours or so, we made our way back to the pier and realised that there would be a slight delay for the tender boat, so next door was the yacht club – a perfect waiting area. You can just see the ship on the left.

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This time I thought I’d have a change. The yacht club didn’t have a Woody either.

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The small band were easy on the ear.

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Thanks to Ken for a much better street view of the ship.

When Captain Bligh sailed through these islands, he was reluctant to land because at that time were known as the ‘cannibal islands’. It was the arrival of missionaries and the spread of Christianity that put an end to cannibalism.

I’m pleased to say that things have changed since Captain Bligh sailed through the Fijian islands.

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I stepped between two stalls, because I could see a small park. It was just a few paces from the main road (which wasn’t busy) and I just stood and drank in the views – is it any wonder Maureen & I loved our short stop in Savusavu, and that the Americans are buying property in the area.?

 

 

 

 

Suva

Never mind clocks & watches and all that accurate stuff, when in Fiji one must get used to Fiji time . . .

DSC06067rJust after sunrise we approached our berth at Suva, Fiji.

Abel Tasman was the first European to sight Fiji in 1643, and this was followed by Captain Cook in 1770.

It was thanks to Captain Bligh during his epic voyage, after the mutiny on HMS Bounty that brought Fiji to the attention of the world.

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Captain Bligh sailed between the two main islands, Vanua Levu (the long island) and Viti Levu (the round shaped island that contains Suva). As you see the stretch of water is now called Bligh Water.
In 1789, Captain Bligh and eighteen of his crew were cast adrift in a small boat and the Captain navigated, without a chart, but with only a compass and a quadrant (a type of sextant) 6701 km (3618 nautical miles), which was a huge feat of navigation and he only lost one man who was killed by natives on the Tongan island of Tofua.
Bligh landed in the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia today) after a forty seven days voyage, and eventually arrived back in the England, where he took command of another ship and sailed back to Fiji and chartered the 39 islands of Fiji.

Fiji eventually became a colony of the Great Britain in 1874.

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In Suva (the capital of Fiji) there are stones markers for various happenings and dates.

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We didn’t book a ship’s tour but decided to hire a taxi for the four of us and just have the driver show us around.

On exiting the wharf area, we had quite a choice of taxi driver and in the end we picked one and away we went.

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The ship berthed close to the city centre.

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Of course, our driver took us to see the Australian High Commission – guards were happy to see us and waved, unlike a certain other embassy.

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Wherever we went we were not far from a church – about 65% of the population are Christian and take their church going seriously. The next largest religious group is the Hindu religion.

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Our driver took us to see a Mormon church – we could walk around the grounds, but we didn’t go into the main building. The main building can be seen in the above photograph, and the one above this is a distant shot.

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Everywhere was very neat and tidy.

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When I took this picture the entrance to the church was behind me and all the buildings that you can see are all part of this church. The one in the centre is the administration building, I think.

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Check the first photograph of this church and you will see the statue on the roof of the main church.

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We next drove up into the hills and came across Colo I Suva which is a rain forest eco resort, and I think we were told that it is owned by an Australian lady. As you see it had started to rain, but it didn’t last long.

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I was standing in the bar when I took this picture.

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The main hotel is across the bridge I was in a ‘satellite’ area, which was a quiet area for reading or just to listen to the birds in the trees.

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The driver then took us to a look-out point and told us of Joskes Brew. Note the alcohol percentage, at first, I thought it was a type of beer, but it is cane spirit mixed with cola. I haven’t tasted it.

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and the history of sugar cane farming.

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Paul Joske 1825 – 1898

Although Paul Joske and his partner failed to grow sugar, and lost the huge sum of £30,000, he went on to help design Suva.

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The mountain the can be seen sticking up in the above picture was originally called “Rama” or the Devils thumb, because it reminded the locals of a man trying to claw his was out of Hell.
After Paul Joske committed suicide the ‘Devil’s Thumb’ was renamed ‘Joske’s Peak’ in memory of him because of his contribution to the creation of Suva.

As an aside, Sir Edmond Hilary who was the first man to climb Mount Everest failed twice to scale Joske’s Peak. The first attempt was due to not being able to get close enough to the base due to heavy undergrowth and on the second attempt he tried to climb the wrong side. He did climb it eventually, but not until 1983, which was 30 years after he’d climbed Everest.

The ‘thumb’ is a volcanic plug that towers over a local village.

Fiji became an independent nation in 1970, with the Queen as Head of State.

From the lookout point we made our way to Government House, which used to be the residency of the Governor-General, who represented the Queen.
In 1987 Fiji became a republic after two military coups.
Government House, which was built in 1928 after a fire destroyed the original building, is now the official residence of the President of Fiji.

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Government House faces the sea, and it was from a position in front of this building that the photograph of Joske’s Peak was taken.

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A zoom facility does come in handy at times.

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There are guards at the entrance to the Government House.

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This is the plaque at the entrance to Government House.

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It had been over thirty years since I was last in Suva, but I still remembered the town centre.

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Our driver dropped us off in the city centre, which gave us time for a little shopping before walking back to the ship, which took about five minutes, because we were so close to the town centre.

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From our balcony we could see returning coaches that had taken cruise passengers on various tours, and I noticed that nearly all of the buses displayed a sunshade sign –

Jesus   no other name   no other way 

Obviously none of the locals considered this public declaration of Christianity by the company that owned the buses, or the driver that drove the bus, to be un PC.

How refreshing.

 

 

 

 

Dravuni Island

DSC06007rSunrise as we approached the island.

Dravuni Island is part of the Kadavu Group of islands, which are part of Fiji. It is a small island of about 0.8 sq km (0.3 sq miles) and the population is about 200 living in one village. It is one of the smallest populated islands in the Fijian archipelago.

There aren’t any vehicles, cinemas, shops, internet connection, but they do have peace and quiet, friendship, colourful plants, golden beaches, clear sea water and the sound of the sea as it ripples up the beach.

Ruby Princess anchored well off the shore and tender boats ran a shuttle service to and from the small island pier.

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Treasure Island perhaps  . . . . did Robert Louis Stevenson visit??

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Not everyone came ashore, but for those of us who did it was worth the effort, not that it was much of an effort.

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For me, the feeling of sand between my toes and to be able to just paddle in warm salt water is pure pleasure.

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Stepping off the beach and we were in the village. The green roofed building is the local primary school.

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School noticeboard – and two plaques are below.

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We were allowed inside, and we listened to the children singing.

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The above two photographs are thanks to Ken.

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We decided to walk to the peak, which can be seen on the right side of the map.

The walk to the peak looked easy so we set off along a dirt path.

DSC06021rThe local ladies were selling various items strung between palm trees and bushes. There wasn’t any ‘hard sell’, just a polite ‘Bula’ (a Fijian greeting) as we looked over the items for sale.

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We passed four guys (2% of the population when you think of it) who had the right idea of life. They didn’t make any effort to sell us a coconut drink, so perhaps they didn’t want to . . . after all they most probably thought that this is my island in the sun.
For those who can remember 1957. The above picture is thanks to Ken.

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Even a small island in the Pacific can have bush fires similar to the larger island in the Pacific – Australia.

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We reached part way up the hill, and looked at the climb to reach the top, and I decided that there comes a time when my pacemaker tells me ‘no more’, so I quit.

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Even from only being part way up the hill, the views were great.

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The path that we walked up . . .

Some people found a path that took them to the opposite side of the island, because they wanted a less ‘crowded’ beach –

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The above pic is the village beach – crowded??

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I took the photograph from the tender as we returned to the ship – Ruby Princess had to anchor far out because the island has a research station for the university of the South Pacific to study the Great Astrolabe Reef and the surrounding coral.

They say life is full of coincidences –

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If we were to sail from Dravuni Island 325 miles southwest, we would come across a reef and a small island called Ceva-I-Ra Reef, which until 1976, was called Conway Reef.

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HMS Conway

In 1838 Captain Charles Bethune of HMS Conway, first came across the reef and recorded it, but it was not mapped for several years, and remained a danger to ships.

Check this Conway Reef link and it is obvious that the reef is still a danger to shipping today.

In 1859 HMS Conway later became the first ship to be loaned by the British Government to the Mercantile Marine Association of Liverpool to be used as a training establishment to train young men to become officers in the British merchant navy.
I was fortunate to win a place to the Conway in 1960, before going to sea in 1962 – hence the coincidence.
When I attended HMS Conway she was a land based training ‘ship’ until 1974 when she was closed down.

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Even a visit to a quiet island like Dravuni, demands a cold beer on our return.

May I wish my readers a very Happy Christmas and a safe and healthy 2020.

 

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