Rostock, Germany

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The old part of Rostock (rebuilt after WW2) – the white piano was being played while we walked around and it was very pleasant to hear it in the background.

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The day was warm and the children seemed to be having great fun dodging the intermittent water fountains.

Rostock was to be our last port of call for this Baltic cruise, before we headed back to Southampton. This year is the 800th anniversary of the town.

Our guide was a twenty eight year old university student, who was very good and offered his services as a tour guide in his spare time. His English was excellent.

Our coach transported us from the port to the old part of the town, which was about a twenty minute ride.

During WW2, Rostock was targeted by the RAF because of two aircraft factories in the vicinity. Bombing the factories also meant that the town received a lot of hits.

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     Both above & below from the internet – note the church which is still standing today.

Rostock, Marktplatz mit Rathaus

The market square and the building in front of which the cars are parked, is the town hall.

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The same square today, with a small market in operation, and the pink building is the town hall.

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The guide told us there aren’t any photographs of the destroyed city on display, and the only public acknowledgment is a painting inside St Mary’s,which was the only church that survived.

Rostock has become one the most popular ports for cruise ships in Europe, and tourism is now one of their biggest industries.

We started are walking tour near the modern shopping are.

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Kröpelin Gate – first mentioned in 1280,

Rostock used to be a walled defensive city and you entered via one the many gates, this gate is 54 mtrs (177 ft) high. It is now a free museum.

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Part of the old wall.

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They’ve reconstructed the support system for the defenders to fire over the wall.

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I think this columned building part of Rostock University.

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The university –

The yellow columned building is to my left, and the children playing in the fountains are just behind me.

The university was founded in 1419, which was seventy three years before Columbus discovered America.  Today they have 14,000 students and 2933 staff.

On the 500th anniversary of Rostock University Albert Einstein received an honorary doctorate in 1919, which made the university the first place of higher learning in the world to honour Einstein in such away. Unlike many other academics, Einstein’s doctorate was not revoked during the Nazi period.

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No 14 was our guide – the statues I think depict various virtues, justice, modesty, diligence etc.

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The coat of arms of the Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, which existed from 1815 to 1918, is displayed at the very top top of the university entrance ‘tower’.

In the park in front of the university there is a statue –

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depicting another solider of the Napoleonic wars, and I was very surprised to see him because I didn’t realise that he came from Rostock.

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Gebhard Leberecht von Blüche

The one consuming passion of Field Marshal (and later Prince) Blüche, was to beat the French under Napoleon. Blüche had been a solider most of his life, mainly fighting the French. His life story reads like a boys own adventure story.

During Napoleon’s ‘one hundred days’, after he had escaped from the Mediterranean island of Elba in 1815, the British (with contingents of Dutch & present day Belgium troops), and the Prussians under Blüche’s command, marched to combine their forces so as to face the French.
Napoleon’s tactic was to aim his army at the allied weak spot, which was the join of the two main armies, and force them apart, so that he could deal with each army individually.
This is what happened at Charleroi, and according to Wellington, who was surprised at the speed of Napoleon’s advance, commented that he (Wellington) had been ‘humbugged’. He also said about Napoleon, ”By God, that man does war honour’.

Once the allies had been split Napoleon attacked the Prussians at Ligny, and won the battle, but he was unable to destroy the Prussian army.
The failure to destroy the Prussians, was the decider two days later during the Battle of Waterloo. Wellington decided to hold his ground because he had been promised by  Blüche that he would rejoin Wellington as soon as he could.

During the battle of Ligny,  Blüche was severely injured after being trapped under his dead horse. He bathed his wound in liniment of rhubarb and garlic and after a good dose of schnapps he rejoined the army. Not bad for a seventy four year old.

As he climbed on his horse he said – “I have given my promise to Wellington, and you surely don’t want me to break it? Push yourselves, my children, and we’ll have victory!

After Waterloo Blüche was invited to London to be formally thanked for his help. This was his second visit having visited after the fall of Napoleon in 1814.

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British cartoonists had a field day of Blüche tanning the behind of the Corsican.
Picture from the internet.

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Ratschow Haus – the Ratschow family lived here in the early 20th century the dark brick appearance is north German brick Gothic, and the front that can be seen is the only piece left after the bombing – the remainder of the house behind is a 1950’s construction, and was opened in 1961 as the municipal library, which is why you can see  it referred to as  Stadtbibliothek, which means library.

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St Mary’s Church – (St Marien), 770 years old and still going strong, for the history of the church click this link St Mary’s church.

During the bombing all the area was on fire and it looked like,the church had caught fire. Click on this link about Friedrich Bombowski  to read how he saved the church.

The church is Evangelical Lutheran (Protestant) denomination and still has regular Sunday services and daily prayer time.

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North German Gothic brick – they made the bricks because of the lack of stone & rock to use as building material. The baked red-ish coloured bricks arrived in the area around the 12th century.

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The church is famouse for housing an astronomical clock, which was built in 1472 and still going.

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At the top of the clock, on each hour, the Apostle go around, and cross before Jesus before entering Paradise – Judas is not allowed in . . .

The clock  shows the daily time, moon phases, month and the zodiac sign.
The calendar is valid until 2150, having been reconfigured in 2018, which replaced the previous re-configuring in 1885 to 2017. The clock is the only one of its kind to still operate with its original clockworks.

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Close up of part of the face . . not sure how to interpret the information. The pointer on the left is pointing at the 18th of the month – we were there on the 18th July.

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The huge organ with-in the church.
Installed in 1770, and it has 5,700 pipes and requires 83 stops.

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The pulpit, note the size compared to the man in red viewing the pulpit.

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Perhaps the sermon went on a little longer than planned.

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Baptismal font – still in use.

Made in bronze, and began its life at Easter in 1290. It is decorated with scenes from Jesus’ life, and supported by four kneeling men representing Earth, Fire, Water, Air. The font was hidden during WW2 so that it couldn’t be melted down for munitions. The bird on the top is an eagle.

About a ten minute walk from the church towards the river, and we were close to snack time.

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A small craft brewery near the river.

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Of course I was forced to drink Maureen’s, as well as my own, because of her celiac condition. Everyone in the group was presented with a glass to take home as a memento.

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The bagel soaked up the beer, for a pleasant ride back to the ship.

 

 

 

Beechworth, where dead men do tell tales.

Next day we repacked the car and headed to Beechworth in Victoria. The drive was just over two hours, via the outskirts of Albury. It was an easy drive, and once off the freeway a very pleasant drive along quiet country roads.
Finding our accommodation Rose Cottage was easy.

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Rose cottage from the front gate.

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View from the small patio outside our room, very peaceful with a glass of wine.

The decor is ornate country cottage, with a homely feel of yesteryear. The cottage has a large number of interesting pieces, which held my attention. Where ever I went there was something different and many pieces reminded me of an elderly Aunt’s home that I used to visit as a child. She lived in Caernarvon, North Wales, and her home was country-ish. Of course in Rose Cottage everywhere was rose coloured.

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Entrance hall             Our room – the teddy bear is not mine!

Our room wasn’t quite ready when we arrived, so were offered two free vouchers to try out the local pub called The Hibernian, which was a short walk (about fifty metres) from Rose Cottage, just in time for a pre-lunch drink. A very friendly pub with good food and cold beer – couldn’t fault it.

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Beechworth is a piece of ‘yesterday’, quiet streets, which are very wide, friendly locals, and because we were out of season (just before Easter) it was a pleasure to just wonder in and out of shops to check out the local produce (mainly honey), and wine.

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Old buildings and quiet streets

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During our stay we saw much of the Ned Kelly gang era, from their last stand and gun fight, to Ned Kelly being committed for trial in Melbourne, where he was found guilty of murder, and November 1880 hanged at the age of 25.

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The above is Ned Kelly’s death mask.

The old court house is as it was in the 1870’s and all of the furnishings, including the large clock, were used in that period.

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This the holding cell where Ned Kelly waited to be called in to court.

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The picture behind me shows Ned Kelly standing in the same dock during his committal hearing for the murders of Constables Scanlon and Lonigan.

Court house

The last time this court was used was in 1989, after 131 years of continual service.

 

 

It is believed that Harry Power, (also known as Johnson) later known as ‘the Gentleman Bushranger’, was Ned Kelly’s tutor in his life of crime. Power is virtually unknown today.

The picture below is of the original cell, under the town hall, where he (Power) was held in Beechworth before being sentenced to fifteen years for armed hold ups.

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Harry Power retired from a life of crime, after finishing his fifteen years in gaol, in 1885. He was an old sick man and used to earn a living as a tour guide around ‘Success’, which was the prison ship in which he had served seven years, as a prisoner. He was known as ‘The last of the bushrangers’.

In 1891 he drowned in the Murray River at Swan Hill, so ending the era of the ‘Bushrangers’.

As we walked from historic site to historic site we were always greeted by people in traditional dress of yesteryear, including many of the men wearing long beards of the period of the 1850’s to 1870’s, all genuine. The people involved with the history of the town were, I believe, volunteers and their labour of love shows through, via their enthusiasm.

Next to the Court House is the telegraph office where one can still send a message via Morse code. It opened in 1857. As with many Beechworth places of interest there is always a volunteer in attendance. The elderly gentleman who was happy to talk to use and show us how everything worked used to be a ‘key-man’ from way back. We spoke of the differences between his day on land and a ship’s Marconi radio operator when I was at sea.

For a small fee he would send a message, via Morse, anywhere in the world. It turned out that the message went to someone in Melbourne, and after that it went by post to its destination. The Morse system is operated by volunteer hobbyists, so sending within Australia was not a problem because locale hobbyists would decode and post locally within Australia, but internationally it was a problem, but by using the snail mail postal system the message would reach its destination – eventually.

It was suggested to us that we drive to the top of Mount Stanley for views of the Victorian Alps. This sounded a good idea so we set off and drove to Stanley, the small town at the foot of the mountain. As we approached the lower part of the mountain the road became a dirt road.

The dirt road was not a problem as we climbed higher and higher until it started to get very narrow, with a cliff edge on one side and forest trees on the other. Glimpses of a very good view could be seen occasionally by Maureen, but I was not in the mood to take my eyes off the road, which was getting narrower still, and a puncture would be a major problem on the steep incline.

In addition I was concerned that if we met another vehicle coming down the mountain we would not have enough room to pass, and one of us would have to reverse a considerable way.
Eventually we came across a small area where the road was a little wider, with a small cutting in to the woods to allow cars to pass. I took advantage of this area to turn the car around and return to civilisation. The last thing I wanted was any serious damage to the car as we had only just started our road trip.

Later when we mentioned this aborted trip in our B & B we were told that the view was not very good because the trees had grown so tall that many obscured the Alps. Apparently the green brigade objected to the pruning of the trees to maintain the views.

On our list of ‘must see’ was a cemetery, which when you think about it is an unusual holiday destination. The cemetery is famous for the Chinese connection with its many graves and Chinese shrines from the gold rush days.

Chinese Burning Towers.

Chinese-Burning-TowersThe relatives and friends of the recently died would burn prayers and meals provided to help the Spirits on their way. Over 2000 Chinese are buried in this cemetery.

Picture from the cemetery’s web site.

As we respectfully checked the Chinese area, a local introduced himself as the Manager of the cemetery and asked if he good he help?

I explained that we were visiting from Sydney and that we were interested in the old graves. From then on the Manager was a fund of knowledge of the ‘old days’ and brought to life (excuse the pun) the history of the cemetery and how the Chinese section grew. The areas which we thought were ‘blank’ as if waiting for the next funeral where in fact graves of paupers or the mentally ill from the local mental institution, which no longer exist. Many of the mentally ill were abandoned by their family, and the patient was never visited. When they died relatives failed to claim the body, so they were buried in the pauper’s area. In some cases the family had left the area and the authorities were unable to trace their new address.

There were a number graves pointed out by the Manager, which were famous. I’ve listed three that I found interesting.

John Drummond; born 1791 in Scotland. He joined the 71st Regiment at 15, and served in eleven battles during the Peninsular Napoleonic war. He fought at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.
He was wounded in 1811 and 1813, and discharged from the army as a sergeant in 1828 ‘worn out through length of service’.
He arrived in Australia in 1831, and perhaps the gold attracted him to Beechworth in the 1850’s. He was a caring man because in 1858 he gave up his army pension for the widows and children of those killed in the Crimea war. He died at 73 years of age in 1865. He is thought to be one of only ten men in Victoria who fought at Waterloo.

James Riley; born New Jersey in 1829. He enlisted in the American Army in 1862, and was badly wounded in the right leg at the battle of Reams Station on Weldon Railroad. He turned up in Beechworth and married in 1886, a local widow. He died in 1901.

James Storey; born in New York in 1818. He enlisted in the 2nd US Dragoons in 1840 and fought against the Indians (Seminole Indians I think), in the West. He re-enlisted in 1845 and served in the Mexican War between 1846 and 1848. He fought at the battle of Palo Alto, Resaca de la Palma, Monterey and Beuno Vista, where he had his horse shot from under him.
In 1850 he went gold digging in California, and in 1853 he arrived in Beechworth looking for gold. In 1858 he married an ex-convict, who had been transported from England for theft in 1839. He died in January 1913 at the age of 95, and is buried with his wife in Beechworth cemetery.

In 1932 the last Chinese person was buried in the Chinese section, he was 105 years old, having lived in Beechworth for over 70 years.

Without the Manager I doubt that we would have gained so much from our visit.

From the cemetery we decide to visit the carriage museum. It wasn’t easy to find, but we did find it in the grounds of a brewery.

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We seem to have visited a number of places in Beechworth linked to death, perhaps it is our age that we can look upon the trappings of death, without being part of the main scene – yet.

I noticed that the brewery offered ‘tasting’ so after viewing the various carriages I felt in need of a few tastings, so we entered the brewery. I asked about the type of beer that they brewed and was told that they didn’t brew beer, but cordial! A ‘cold one’ was not forthcoming.

To be fair, the cordial tasted very different than the supermarket type cordials. The history of this brewery was interesting.

They had an area dedicated to the story of the brewery, which opened in 1865, brewing beer. It wasn’t until the Temperance Society became involved in the 1920’s that the brewery changed from beer to cordial. It is located over an underground spring of pure water, for both the beer and cordial. The brewery is called Murray Breweries, and it wasn’t until I left Beechworth that I found out that the local beer brewery is Bridge Road Brewers, and they offered real local ale. You win some and loose some, but Murray Brewery was enjoyable, if different.