Home Line

Chakdara – launched 1951, 7,132 gt

The first Chakdara (3,035 gt) was launched in 1914 and was named after an important trading town in northern India, which was on the main trading route to Afghanistan.
In 1933 she was sold to Burma Steam Nav Co., but she foundered off Burma in 1935.
After partition the town of Chakdara was in Pakistan and Chakdara II was named after the original ship.
She had accommodation for 12 passengers.
The ‘atmosphere’ on the ship was different from the other cargo ships in which I sailed.
I can only put it down to the Chakdara was a Home-line ship rather than an Eastern-Service ship.
The Home Line vessels had to contend with Head Office in London, whereas the Eastern Service vessels had little to do with Head Office because of limited communication facilities. The internet was yet to be invented and all correspondence was via air mail or faxes to a network of agencies.

The officers on the ship paid for the mail from our ship to family and friends in the UK. The above is one of my letters from Abu Dhabi in the Persian Gulf to the UK. 

Our mail from family and friends would be sent to the London Head office and H/O would bundle the officer’s mail for a particular ship along with official business documents and send the combined package to our agent to wait for the ship’s arrival.
If while at sea we were diverted to another port it was a panic job for the local agent to try and send the ship’s mail to meet our arrival at our new destination. To say that we were upset if the mail failed to reach us is an understatement.
A similar system operated for our crew, but the crew’s families did not send their mail to London, but to Calcutta or Bombay because this would be a domestic postage cost for the crew member’s family.      

After checking out of the Beach Luxury Hotel in Karachi I was taken by the agent to sign on Chakdara, which had arrived a few hours earlier. She was outbound from the UK to Pakistan and various Indian ports before loading in Calcutta with a homeward bound cargo. The majority of our cargo would be for the UK, but we would also carry smaller amounts for various ports that we had to pass e.g. Colombo in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) or Aden (now called Southern Yemen).    

I signed on Chakdara on the 6th July and on the 7th July I was sent to take a lifeboat examination.
All officers had to hold a current lifeboat certificate particularly if we were to carry passengers.
I already held a lifeboat certificate (but it had not been issued in Pakistan), so I was told to do it again.
I think this was to satisfy the Pakistani authorities, plus a number of our crew were taking the exam so I was given the job of keeping an eye on the procedures.
On arrival in any port the First Officer is responsible for the overseeing of the discharge and loading of cargo and allocated various duties to the 2nd & 3rd officers, who in turn were supported by cadets.
The arrival of a new cadet, who did not yet know his way around the ship, was inconvenient, so appointing him to look after the lifeboat attendees would mean that a cadet who had more knowledge of the ship was more useful onboard than overseeing the crew’s lifeboat exam.           
It was an interesting day with a boat full of unknown crew rowing around the docks of Karachi after we had released the ship’s lifeboat, swung it out on davit and lowered it into the dirty water of the Karachi docks.

The above is an illustration of a lifeboat in the early 1960’s, which was open to all the weather and propelled by oars.

           
The above is to give you an idea of an open lifeboat

A modern-day ship’s lifeboat, which would you prefer? 

I passed,

and as Ratty said to Mole – “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
(Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows.)

Ratty did not spend several hours in a dirty smelly Karachi dock in 40 c heat.

We sailed with a couple of passengers, an Indian lady and her daughter. I was fortunate to spend a lot of time with the daughter who was in her late teens and wanted me to teach her chess.
For those with questionable minds we just played chess.   

We sailed to Ceylon, as it was then – Ceylon didn’t become Sri Lanka until 1972. After which we sailed to our first Indian port of Madras (now called Chennai).

Mount Road Madras, in the 1960’s – note the lack of rubbish. 

The day after arrival in Madras, I and another cadet were allowed ashore. We were under strict instructions that we had to be back on board no later than 6.00 am the following day, at which time we would sail for Calcutta.

Madras was a pleasant place, but it could not hold our interest until 6.00 am the following morning, so we decided to return to the ship around 11.30 pm.

Another Madras scene in the mid 1960’s

On entering the dock area, we noticed that our ship was no longer at the same berth as she was a few hours earlier. We looked along the quay thinking that she had been moved to a fresh berth – we couldn’t see her.
On reaching the original berth a well-dressed Indian stepped out of the shadows and asked if we were cadets from the Chakdara, with him was an armed soldier.
We agreed that we were from the Chakdara and asked where our ship was berthed. He pointed to a vessel turning in the outer harbour.
‘You are booked on the next train to Calcutta, and an armed guard will accompany you’ said the agent.
‘How were we to know she was going to sail early?’
He shrugged his shoulders and spoke to the guard, who moved towards us to make sure we were not illegal immigrants trying to enter India.

As he did so we noticed a small rowing boat passing near the steps that led from the quay to the water, and we both ran down and jumped into this boat. The dozing boatman was suddenly wide-awake.
We waved money at him and pointed to our ship in the outer harbour, and we set off in hot pursuit. Behind us the armed guard was not at all happy at losing his prisoners, but at least he did not fire at us.

Our ship was turning very slowly in the harbour, and the boatman was pulling on his oars like mad, in an effort to catch our ship.
While the boatman rowed, my friend and I stood in the stern shouting and waving like demented fools as we waved our lit cigarette lighters, in an effort to attract attention.

The ship completed her turn and was now pointing out to sea through the harbour entrance. We could see the white disturbance of the water caused by her propellers as she began to move ahead.
Suddenly the disturbance stopped, and a Jacob’s ladder was lowered down to the water’s edge – they’d seen or heard us. The harbour and the quay were all brightly lit so perhaps someone was keeping an eye out, just in case.
We paid off the boatman and began the climb up the steep side of the ship, via the ladder.

The picture shows Chakdara with a Jacob’s ladder hanging over the side – our problem was that it was half past midnight – not daylight as in the photograph. At least the deck crew shone a light over the side to assist our climb.

We were nearing the top of the ladder when the sound of the engines could be heard as half ahead was rung on the telegraph, and we could feel the vibration of the ship’s  engines as the ladder quivered and our grip tightened on the ladder.  Time was money.
As the senior cadet I was ordered to report to the Captain to explain our lateness.
Even though I’d been told that we were not due to sail until after 6.00 am the following day, I was told that I should have known that we would have sailed early.
At that comment from the captain, I kept my mouth shut – I was not sure if he was joking or blaming us.

Our next port would be Calcutta.

Mutiny?

What do people think of when they hear of a mutiny? Perhaps cinema’s effort to re-enact a mutiny helps us to think of –

Mutiny

the mutiny on HMS Bounty, in April 1789 might come to mind. .

Indian-Mutiny

or would it be the Indian Mutiny of 1857. .

Russia

or a later mutiny aboard the Russian battleship ‘Potemkin’ in 1905.

caine mutiny

Perhaps fiction comes to mind ‘The Cain Mutiny’, and Captain Queeg, played by Humphrey Bogart Cainemutinybook

 

We sailed from Bushire in Iran for Karachi in Pakistan oblivious of the future.

Our deck and engine-room crews were from Pakistan and mainly from Karachi and the surrounding areas.

So of course they would be expecting the opportunity of going ashore to see their families, once we were alongside and they were off duty. The system was that time ashore would be split between the crew so that we would always have enough crew on-board to man the ship.

The plan was to be in Karachi for twenty-four hours, it was to be a quick ‘turn around’, discharge and load cargo at the same time.

Of course, all the best plans can go astray if someone doesn’t do what is expected. Our agent in Karachi was supposed to arrange for shore side passes for all of the crew so that they could go ashore and see their families – he failed to arrange the passes, and even Pakistanis were required to have a pass to exit the dock or return to their ship. In the 1960’s security was not as ridged as it is now.

When the crew were informed that they were not allowed to go ashore because the passes were not available, they became very upset – and that is putting it mildly.

The Captain & the Chief engineer were told by the deck & engine-room crew, that if they didn’t receive the passes, they would walk off the ship, and she would not be able to sail.

I suppose a mutiny alongside is much more preferable than one in the middle of the ocean, at least the officers would not have to sail an open boat over 3600 nautical miles to get help, which Captain Bligh managed after the HMS Bounty mutiny.

The passes eventually arrived and as they were handed to the deck crew, who had been particularly aggressive, they were told to pack their bags and not to return to the ship, and that they would no longer be considered for a position on any British India Steam Navigation Company vessel.
I don’t know for certain, but I assume that their discharge books would be stamped DR – decline to report – which any future Captain hiring a crew would not entertain anyone with DR in their discharge book. A discharge book is the work record of sailors, and most would have VG or G stamped alongside the ship’s name – Very Good or Good, either is acceptable to allow a sailor to gain a berth and ship out again in a decent ship.

ID card 001

The bottom of the Discharge Book is not clear so I cropped it and highlighted the title.

ID card 001cropped

DSC06690

The above is what the inside of a Discharge Book looks like  – ship’s name on the left, date and port of joining and date & port of the end of the voyage, description of voyage (British Coastal or Foreign), and report on ability (VG) & general conduct (VG).

The Pakistani seamen would have received at least DR in ‘conduct’, not sure what the stamp would have been for ability, considering they all left under a cloud of ‘mutiny’.

The engine room crew had not been as belligerent as the deck crew so the Chief Engineer decided to give the engine-room crew a second chance. The Captain would still have to sign all of the engine room’s crew’s discharge books at the end of the voyage.

Of course, we had to sign on a new deck crew before we could sail, this we did, and we managed to sail on time.

BL

Some years earlier, when I was a cadet, I’d stayed at the Beach Luxury Hotel in Karachi for eighteen days while waiting for a ship.
I’d signed off a ship because she was remaining in the Far East and I was to join a home bound ship, because I was due leave after a year or so out East.

I’d enjoyed my stay in Karachi, and the hotel was the first time I’d experienced a real ‘nightclub’.
I’d never seen a real floor show in a hotel or restaurant, except via the cinema, courtesy of Hollywood. The nightly show guaranteed at least one person in the audience.
Talk about being star struck, I was entranced with the nightly shows of singers or dancers during the evening meal.

BL2

Another shot of the hotel – the picture was taken about the time I was staying there.

cars

The city at that time was a mixture of modern and traditional.

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In the early 60’s they still get around in a ‘garry’, which was the name of this type of horse drawn vehicle, and of course the tuk tuk.

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During the eighteen days waiting for a ship, the two things that I do remember about Karachi in 1964 was visiting the zoo, which I found to be a disappointment, because I saw a three-legged jackal (it wasn’t born that way), and I was not impressed with the poor conditions of the remaining animals.

I also visited a horse racing meet and noted a horse called Solomon Star, and in brackets (formally Woodland Star).
Never having been very good at gambling I thought the last horse to bet on would be an animal linked to me (Woodland) – so I didn’t bet on Solomon Star, but of course it romped home, thus confirming my lack of gambling skill.

The next tine I put money on a horse was in 1982 in Melbourne (Melbourne Cup) and I won $5, the last of the big betters. Haven’t had the urge to lose money since.

Karachi early 1960’s  check this small piece of film and note how they used to load certain cargo.

 

 

 

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